-         Aside from being mentally prepared (trust me you WILL GET FRUSTATED & DIRTY) and a free afternoon you’ll need the following tools:

o       A nice set of socket wrenches (1/4” sockets, 3/8” sockets, both regular and deep)

o       Socket wrench extensions, including swivels

o       A small claw hammer (those they sell at the dollar shop)

o       Screw drivers

o       Dentistry tools (optional)

o       Air compressor (optional)

o       Carburetor cleaner

o       Gunk degreaser

o       A set of TORX bits (see picture below)

o       A set of E-TORX sockets (see picture below)

o       Rags or shop towels, LOT’s of them




Set of TORX bits you can get at Princess Auto for around $10.




Set of E-TORX sockets that you can get at Princess Auto for $30.  You will need as large as E-12 so don’t buy only the smaller sets which turn out being more expensive.








A new EGR valve for the SMART supposedly looks like this, a little different from those of a “regular car”




This is a nice pic I found on the web showing how the intake air flow.




(cools down air from turbo)



(from air filter)



(from exhaust)



(air has been compressed by the turbo)




You will find the EGR valve on the left of the engine compartment right by the intercooler fan.












Start by removing the intake manifold hose by loosening the gear clamp.






Remove the hose from the EGR valve.  This is probably the hardest part of the job because the hose is kind of glued to the pipe so you have to “crack” the joint, you can do this one of two ways:

-         Slide the claws of the small hammer between the hose and the pipe and pull & twist.

-         I didn’t try this but if you drive the car hard with the gear clamp loose I think the air pressure from the turbo will break the joint, when you hear hissing is a sign that air is leaking out and the joint is broken.

Then you can take your first peak at inside the EGR valve.





Now the fun begins.  You are going to remove the rear bumper cover and bumper, and a whole new world opens up as the engine compartment is so much more accessible from the back than from the top.


Remove the two screws on the bottom of the bumper cover, the three screws on top and the two screws on both sides.






There are two keyhole slots on each side so you must slide the bumper cover towards the rear of the car slightly so it disengages the holes.  Once you cleared the keyholes pull the sides of the bumper cover outwards and remove the bumper so you can unplug the side light bulbs.  I recommend a helper to avoid scratches.


In case you don’t know a keyhole slot looks like this                                                     On the SMART the keyhole assemblies are behind the mud guard underneath the bumper.







Remove the light bulbs from the bumper cover by twisting and pulling them and voila, bumper cover out.


Bumper cover removed, notice where the light bulbs are                                                                                                              Bumper





Now you need to remove the actual bumper (yes the big aluminum bar) and bumper cover brackets.  There will be two square aluminum spacer plates that will fall off when you remove the bolts, don’t worry, just remember to put them back on installation. 


Bumpre bolts locations and bumper cove brackets                                                                  Square aluminum plate





With the bumper removed you will gain much better access to the EGR valve, exhaust, turbo and so on.  You still will have to take out some components to clear the way.






Remove the intake pipe leading to the turbo and take the opportunity to clean it up.


Before removing the intake pipe                                                                                                                                                  After removing the intake pipe





Remove the two rear bolts (yes, there is one in the front but I will get to it later) that secure the EGR valve and the two bolts that secure the exhaust recirculation pipe to the EGR valve.  You may want to use a swivel socket extension for one of the bolts and note that there is a small metal gasket that goes in between the EGR valve and the pipe.




Metal gasket between the recirculation pipe and the EGR valve.




Remove the hose going from the intercooler to the EGR valve by removing the snap ring with a screwdriver and puling it out.  Remember that the tip of the pipe is metal so you have to pull straight out or it will bind.


Snap ring.                                                                                                                                                                                   Metal end of the hose.





Remove the other end of the hose going from the intercooler to the EGR valve by loosening the gear clamp, this end is not metal.  This step is not entirely necessary but it helps clearing out the way and gives you the chance to clean things up a bit.


Gear clamp.                                                                                                                                                                                Hose removed.





Now lets work on the bolt that holds the EGR valve from the front, this bolt is somehow hidden and is a major pain in the neck to get out, needless to day that it didn’t go back in.  I figured that two large bolts are enough to hold a 1lb EGR valve.


That’s the one…..                                                                                                                                                                       Start by freeing the fan assembly by squeezing the snap clip and pull the assembly towards you.



Slide the fan assembly upwards out of the bottom bracket.  It slides right up.                                                                                Jiggle the fan assembly out of the way enough to fit the socket wrench and remove the bolt.  Try not to lose your mind, okay?





Unplug (if you haven’t done before) the EGR valve and jiggle it out, should be pretty straight forward after the previous step.











This is what a used EGR valve looks like.


Examine how much crap you have inside your recirculation ports.  That’s what usually gets your valve stuck.





Remove the solenoid and make sure that the center pin move freely in and out, if it doesn’t then either you need to “unstuck” the pin or a new valve.  On the valve body try pushing on the valve stem (pin) to see if it moves freely, if it doesn’t move freely then you need to clean up the crap from inside of the valve, if it does move freely and the ports are not plugged then you may need a new valve.


Solenoid                                                                                                                                                                                     Valve body





Spray carb cleaner inside the valve and remove the gunk with dentistry tools or a screw driver, once you have removed the bulk of it just soak the whole valve body (not the solenoid) into gunk degreaser for a while (30 minutes???) and then keep on picking at it removing as much stuff as possible until the valve move freely in and out, blow compressed air inside to help remove the stuff you loosen.


Before                                                                                                                                                                                        After





Valve closed


Valve open







Just like the folks that write the Hayes manuals say:  “installation is the reverse of removal”.


It actually goes quite smoothly and quick.  Hope this helped.



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